photos from yesterday.
paddling out to surf is always exciting. been doing it for years but still have an incredible feeling when i know i’ll be riding a waves shortly. feels like a kid getting ready to enter disneyland. this is the walk out to kaiser’s with the hawaiian version of the Gold Coast in the background. beautiful.
i can be so far away and know who is on each wave. here is Gabe on a super long left.
even seen some bodyboarders on some good ones yesterday.
also seen some drop ins like normal. haha. i think this is Buddy burning someone.
like i said before, Billy gets the best ones all the time.
the kids are ripping so hard these days. just flying all over the place and landing most of them perfectly.
when there is a south swell, us surfers don’t want to miss a thing. we will surf until the sun burns our face, we will surf until our arms fall off, and we will surf until we can’t surf any more. and when paddling in, everything will hit you all at once. here is Hiro-san paddling in feeling completely satisfied, but completely burnt and tired too. and it’s all worth it. right Hiro-san?
then the walk back to your car. so happy and no stress. the whole world could crumble and you won’t even care. this is the feeling only a surfer will know.
the waves have been amazing for the longest time. perfect waves and perfect weather for a month already. i’m so burnt and tired. super surfed out and content. looking at my schedule on my calendar and see some traveling light. getting excited!
