omg, had another marathon surf day. 3 rounds totaling over 7 hours surfing. surfed 3 different spots, got barreled, and am very satisfied again. burnt, hungry, and tired. it’s turning out to be the best summer ever! tomorrow big waves continue as i’m surfing from early morning.
had so much fun with Tokuda-san. up until now, she only surfed small waves. when i picked her up, she told me she wanted to surf waist high waves. i told her, the smallest wave today is overhead. yeah, it was giant!
we paddled out to close out rock piles. it was so big that i saw a wave break over the red buoy at bowls. lots of broken boards and broken body parts. we caught some big white washes and rode them forever. super good surfing Tokuda-san!
there were only 2 other surfers near us. more tried to come near, but got swept away with the current. we even got swept to the outside with the current and had overhead waves pounding us on the head. i kept on telling Tokuda-san to relax and smile. she started to relax, but she couldn’t smile. haha. i was so happy to see her push her limits today. a big confidence booster for sure.
one local surfer dislocated his shoulder. big injury that needed a ride in the ambulance to the hospital.
there were so many waves breaking and closing out in the boat channel. i seen so many boats almost get smashed by waves. timing is the key. i was determined to go surfing so i just timed the sets like a surfer, and when it was clear, i put the twin yamaha 115hp’s in full speed ahead.
i flew over to big rights, threw in the anchor, paddled super fast to the lineup, and there it was! a huge set coming right to me! i take off and get a big stand up barrel! spit out and i was super happy. paddled back out and told the boys, “wow, the waves are going off!” they looked at me and said “hey, that was the best wave of the morning.” haha. score! here is Seth Moniz on a wave shortly after. look how beautiful it was!
so stoked to surf all over the island and run into one of my nephews. have a lot of fun surfing with them. today i met Seth out at big rights and like always, he was surfing like a champion.
i took my camera out for 2 waves. both perfection! big blue barrels!
after surfing bowls this morning and seeing the waves grow, i knew big rights was going to be big and barreling. it didn’t disappoint.
Seth on another one. after this, i pulled anchor and went to look for an empty spot to surf. my 3rd round and didn’t want to hassle. found a perfect little right, surfed for another hour with nobody around for miles, and came back home at 6pm. ate dinner and going to sleep. so satisfied! goodnight.
