lychee is worth more then gold here in hawaii. my grandpa’s neighbor use to have a tree in his yard but cut it down after people kept on stealing the lychee every season. it’s too expensive for me to buy so i was happy when my friend Carl gave me a big bag full of sweet lychee.
i can’t wait to eat them all!
i see this little 2 year old girl surfing with her mommy all the time. she loves surfing and tries to smile, but she is always cold so her mouth is shivering. i found this little Dove Wetsuit at my house i’ve had for years. wanted to give it to the right baby, and i finally found her. keep warm little girl! keep on surfing and see you in the water.
if you ask most surfers in hawaii, they will all tell you that they are burnt out. the waves have been so good for too long. when there are waves, everybody is happy. lots of happy smiles and happy people, including me.
for the past month, i’ve pulled into 40 barrels, did 500 off the lips, 200 floaters, 300 cutbacks, and caught over 1000 waves. and also pushed people into about 500 waves. as a surfer, i’m fully content. i feel great, i feel healthy, and i feel happy. surfing is my life. the rest are details. more waves on the way so more happiness!
