it’s so weird how small this world is. i was getting ready to jump on a train to somewhere yesterday morning when i get a text from my good friend Matsu. he tells me he’s in kyoto! omg, so close. so i decided to cancel all other plans and hang out with Matsu who’s been my friend for the past 23 years. we went to a cool yakitori restaurant about 10 minutes by taxi from kyoto station. it was awesome! had a great time like always talking about the past, present, and future. great timing Matsu!
if you visit kyoto, you should visit this yakiniku restaurant. Sot-ly-laisse is pretty close to kyoto station and one of the best yakitori restaurants i’ve ever been too. good quality food, very clean, and pretty cheap.
but if you go, you better make reservations.
i’m walking in the rain coming back from the temple yesterday when i get a text from Bobby. he said “did you see the surfingmag.com article?” i said “no.” then he sent me a link. i opened it and found me in the blueroom. remember i told you about my 7 hour surf session just a few days ago? i anchor the boat right in front of big rights, paddle to the lineup, and before i could say “hi” to everybody, a super perfect big wave was coming right to me. i keep on paddling, take off, and pull into the nicest Aqua blue barrel. i was deep, i was calm, i was happy, i was right in the place i wanted to be. 5 seconds later, i fly out of the barrel, totally stoked, and totally satisfied. all this in less than a minute. it’s amazing on how a minute can change your whole day and life. luckily, the worlds best water photographer Zac Noyle was out and shot this photo. definitely a keeper for me. now it’s on the most popular surfing website and millions of people get to see my blueroom barrel. it’s just a barrel to many, but it’s more than that to me. thanks Zac for the awesome photo and for letting me relive a great moment in my life.