Blueroom by Zac Noyle

272

IMG_7202
it’s so weird how small this world is. i was getting ready to jump on a train to somewhere yesterday morning when i get a text from my good friend Matsu. he tells me he’s in kyoto! omg, so close. so i decided to cancel all other plans and hang out with Matsu who’s been my friend for the past 23 years. we went to a cool yakitori restaurant about 10 minutes by taxi from kyoto station. it was awesome! had a great time like always talking about the past, present, and future. great timing Matsu!
IMG_7203
if you visit kyoto, you should visit this yakiniku restaurant. Sot-ly-laisse is pretty close to kyoto station and one of the best yakitori restaurants i’ve ever been too. good quality food, very clean, and pretty cheap.
IMG_7204
but if you go, you better make reservations.
IMG_7199
IMG_7198
i’m walking in the rain coming back from the temple yesterday when i get a text from Bobby. he said “did you see the surfingmag.com article?” i said “no.” then he sent me a link. i opened it and found me in the blueroom. remember i told you about my 7 hour surf session just a few days ago? i anchor the boat right in front of big rights, paddle to the lineup, and before i could say “hi” to everybody, a super perfect big wave was coming right to me. i keep on paddling, take off, and pull into the nicest Aqua blue barrel. i was deep, i was calm, i was happy, i was right in the place i wanted to be. 5 seconds later, i fly out of the barrel, totally stoked, and totally satisfied. all this in less than a minute. it’s amazing on how a minute can change your whole day and life. luckily, the worlds best water photographer Zac Noyle was out and shot this photo. definitely a keeper for me. now it’s on the most popular surfing website and millions of people get to see my blueroom barrel. it’s just a barrel to many, but it’s more than that to me. thanks Zac for the awesome photo and for letting me relive a great moment in my life.

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide