welcome to another marathon surfing day. left my house at 7:30am and got back home at 7pm. was in the water most of the time surfing, surfing, and surfing. super sunny all day long and now i’m really black! if i don’t smile in the dark, you won’t see me. as dark as can be and the next 7 days straight is looking like 7 hour/day of surfing. happy, but black! black happy? haha.
paddling out this morning to perfect waves and perfect conditions was awesome. just happy to see everybody else happy and enjoying this perfect summer day.
today was Haruko-san’s first time surfing. and this was her first wave. this is as perfect as it gets!
Susumu-san use to surf 30 years ago. today, he didn’t forget at thing. long fast riding!
and of course, if there is an empty wave, somebody has to ride it. i’m a surfer so if a wave comes to me, i’ll take it. backside grab rail.
thank you Haruko-san and Susumu-san for the wonderful surf morning. you both did awesome!
and thank you Hikaru-san for introducing me to these wonderful people. good surf, good lunch, good people, good life.
then i went to pick up Ikuko-san this afternoon for our marathon surfing. we paddled out at 2pm and surfed till almost sunset. last year i surfed with Ikuko-san, she could only take off and go straight. now, she’s bottom turning, turning right, left, zig zag, and surfing every wave perfectly.
for the first 3 hours, both of our hair was completely dry. perfect rights after rights with no mistakes. flawless surfing.
then after 3 hours, i finally got my hair wet in the barrel! gosh, the waves were perfect all day long. i am totally sunburnt, i am totally fried, i have total surfers rash on party of my body, and i am so content. i need more, i want more, and i’ll get more. surfing all day tomorrow!
the lucky rainbow and the lucky girl this afternoon.
thank you Ikuko-san for the amazing afternoon session. have a safe trip back to hokkaido and tell Kei-san i said “aloha!” see you again soon!
