isn’t nature so amazing? this is a live volcano in Chile. i would love to see it with my own eyes in person. someday that day will come.
i want to thank Ueno-san for sending me his new CD “Silent Time.” super cool surfer rocker!!!
thank you Ueno-san. hope all is going well with your wonderful family. please tell your 2 beautiful daughters Mari-chan and Ai-chan i said hello. keep on rocking!
wow, i ate it all! thank you Komatsubara-san for hitting my sweet spot!
i woke up this morning with a text photo from my friend Reid. i had to look twice, or even three times. i knew the surfer was Kelia Moniz, but i couldn’t comprehend her charging such a huge wave. no, this is not photoshop, this is freaking real! Kelia is in Tahiti charging big Teahupoo. i don’t know who the heck gave her permission to surf this wave. i know her mom, dad, brothers, and uncles wouldn’t let her do it. and if i was there, i wouldn’t dare let her even try. Teahupoo kills. it’s the deadliest wave in the world. yes, Kelia is 2x world champion, but this is out of her league. and riding a long 9’0 longboard makes it more impossible. after i seen this photo, i knew she didn’t make the drop. just way too steep for a long board. but if she had a 6’6 short board, she could have made it easily.
yes, she fell. and when you fall at Teahupoo, you don’t penetrate, you slide. sliding down a powerful wave with only 3′ of water below you is like staring death in the eyes. whoever let her ride that wave is a very lucky man Kelia is still alive. don’t you dare let her do that crap again. lucky she is alive and i have a message to Kelia, “get your ass home and stop doing stupid things.” but hey, i have to say i’m very proud of you. and i’m sure your brothers are very very jealous. haha.
