ok, part 2 of yesterday. so many things happening, so many things going on, and not enough time to keep up. i picked up Hirano-san yesterday afternoon and we went for a quick surf session. paddled out to bowls but after seeing 40 surfers out, i looked left and seen empty rock piles. only a few surfers and the waves were as perfect as it gets. so we turned left and had the best 1 hour session ever!
it’s the first time i surfed with Hirano-san so i didn’t know what to expect. then i saw him paddle for his first wave, stood up, and surfed like a pro! he was ripping! 35 years of experience under his belt making for perfect rail to rail surfing. we exchanged many waves for an hour, even a few barrels, then it got crowded, and then we went in. couldn’t have timed it any more perfectly.
Hirano-san duck dive in the dark room.
coming from Akita, i’m sure it felt good to take off, go down the line, and do the biggest carving cutback in paradise.
thank you Hirano-san for the wonderful afternoon. see you again this morning and let’s do it all again!
and yes, the water has been so clean this summer! cleaner than usual so even going under the wave feels so good! i love this amazing world!
