wow! another awesome surfing day in hawaii. such perfect days everyday! was super stoked to surf with Tanisaka-san, Chizuru-san, and Kinuyo-san again. always laughing and always smiling. and of course, always surfing good.
Tanisaka-san was ripping this morning! super good waves and super smooth surfing. this was almost an off the SUP lip!
everybody asks me “where is your favorite place in the world.” and my answer is always “right here in hawaii!” i’ve been to so many places in the world, but hawaii will always be my home. look at this perfect wave as Tanisaka-san, speeds down the line. this is perfection!
when we get out of the water, i see a bag of lipstick, keys, coins, brushes, and all kinds of girl stuff scattered around on the ground right in the back of my truck. come to find out, there was a girl vs. girl fight! omg, i can’t believe i just missed the action by 10 minutes. 5 police cars, 2 women arrested, and lots of drama at the beach.
want to thank Tanisaka-san, Chizuru-san, and Kinuyo-san for a wonderful surfing morning and great pho lunch. enjoy your rest of your stay in hawaii and keep on surfing.
and thank you very much for the wonderful gift from japan!
i’m eating one right now! itadakimasu!
then it was round 2 in the afternoon. another great surfer, another great wave, another great time, and another great session. omg! the south swell is coming up! tomorrow should be head high and building over the weekend. i’m surfing till i can’t surf anymore! good night and see you in the water tomorrow.
