omg again and again. the waves were perfect again!!! solid 4′ sets and lots of barreling waves to be found.
Hirano-san and i surfed 2 rounds today. super surfed out and super tired. we practically surfed until our arms were like rubber. come to find out, Hirano-san is 55 years old!! OMG, 55 years and ripping! must be the rice in akita, japan.
just another beautiful day. perfect waves and perfect rides.
gosh, when i turn 55, i hope i can surf like this. super solid bottom turn with lots of drive. great surfing Hirano-san!
got a few good waves for myself too. snuck out to the lineup at bowls and got 2 epic head high sets! my board is working good and my body is working good too. i just love it when the spray comes off the tail like this.
Hirano-san surfs and fishes for his hobby. he has 2 boats in japan so we had lots to talk about these past 2 days. ate a healthy sandwich for lunch, ate some mochi ice cream, surfed 2 rounds, went shopping, and had lots of laughs. thank you Hirano-san for the great time. i hope to be so energetic like you when i get to be 55 years old! keep on surfing.
i’m completely sunburnt and it’s only the start of summer! the days go on with surfing and meeting awesome people every day. can’t wait till tomorrow as i get ready to sleep. omg, it’s only 7:30pm now. haha and good night.
