had another perfect blue surf day with Dr. Kawano-san. super good rides in some pretty big waves. the waves and weather was absolutely perfect! well overhead sets and perfect conditions. good job today Kawano-san! you ripped!
it’s 100% summer! super blue sky, white clouds, warm water, and consistent surf. if you were to imagine the most perfect weather and waves in your life, today would have been it. oh, yesterday too. and the day before. and everyday for the past month. it’s been that perfect. and nobody expected the waves to come up today so pulling up to solid 4′ bowls was a treat. i’m so burnt and surfed out. i wish i can crawl into a country that is indoor with good food. want to rest my skin for a little while.
spent the whole day in the ocean. will download my lost go-pro files and tell you the story tomorrow. for now, i just want to thank my friends for helping me today. if it wasn’t for you guys, i’d be phototless.
