first, i want to start off by thanking Dove Wetsuits for my new short sleeve top! i love it!
second, i was surfing yesterday with my go pro and while i was on a wave, the lip of the wave hit it out of my hand. i lost it in the white wash. the waves were big, there was white water everywhere, and the current was super strong. i was looking for it, but it was no where to be found. i was bummed. then my friends started helping me look for it. i told myself, “it’s gone, move on. if somebody finds it and gives it back to me, it was meant to be. if not, cannot help.” 1 hour passed and my friends were still looking for it. i paddled to magic island to tell them “no need already. but thanks anyway.” we all decided to give up and started paddling back to bowls across the channel. THEN!!! Keoni called me from 40′ away and said “HERE IT IS!” OMG, i was freaking so happy!
when i dropped the go pro, it was still filming. here is the reef 1 minute after i lost it.
then 12 minutes after, you can see the go pro going over the reef into the channel. gosh, we all knew this was going to happen. we were actually all looking in the right direction but to spot out such a small camera in the big ocean is like finding a needle in a haystack.
after Keoni found it, i gave him a big hug. i was so stoked! not bummed i lost the camera because a camera is replaceable. i was bummed because i lost the photos i took earlier that morning of Kawano-san. that is irreplaceable. Keoni saved the day!
and Kawano-san was ripping! short boarding and surfing so fast and good. this is a really nice bottom turn on a good size wave. losing this photo would have sucked!
and when the big closeout sets came, Kawano-san did exactly what you’re supposed to do. throw the board and dive under into the black hole.
Kawano-san on another good wave. gosh, the waves were perfect yesterday!
want to thank Keoni again for finding my go pro. and want to thank Reid, Yuko-chan, and Maki-chan for spending all that time looking for my camera. i know the waves were super epic, but you all chose to help me instead. i really appreciate that and know what true friends are. i owe you all a bunch of waves.
last, when i find things, i return it. i found go pros, and i returned it. maybe that’s why yesterday was meant to be? i truly believe it. thank you again. so the message is, “if you find something, return it. then when you lose something so precious, maybe you will get it back.” it’s called “Karma.”
