omg, the swells continue! usually we have 4 or 5 swells in a whole summer, but this summer, we’ve already had 10 to 12. and guess what? more and more are coming and coming! pulled up to the beach this morning and seen some sets well overhead. solid 4′ plus and super good! so stoked!!! almost everybody is burnt out because everybody is saying “go, go.” and me, i “go, go.”
super cool to surf with Kat this morning. a super good musician, a super good person, and a super good surfer. i was surprised to see some huge sets break over her head and and she comes up smiling? huh? tough girl!
time to tune up my equipment. make sure everything is working good so there are no excuses.
i like taking things apart and putting it back together. all the while dreaming of catching a big fishy.
had a roast duck/charsiu mini plate from Alicia’s. so cheap and so good!
i’m tired of almost running over so many turtles. how do i fix that? simple, raise the seats.
can’t find a big enough foam so stuck two thick boards together. this should work as i will be sitting 3 inches higher.
then some paint to protect the wood. this was the easy part. now i have to install it in the blazing hot sun. get ready to sweat tomorrow.
i use to have a lot of time doing things like this. now i’m busy doing other things so going back to my roots is very rewarding. just taking my time, fixing things, making things better, and enjoying every minute of it.
to the women’s japan team: PLEASE WIN THE SEMIFINALS!!! i want to watch USA vs. JAPAN this weekend in the finals! i’ll be happy with whoever wins that one!
