yesterday has had to be my personal best 4th of july ever! it all started in the morning. took Mayuki for a warm up and seen bowls going off! threw the anchor, thought i’d catch a couple waves. because there was absolutely no parking, the lineup was empty. so good and perfect that i couldn’t go in. ended up catching 30 waves and surfed for 2 hours. then went back in to pick up my friends for a long super fun afternoon.
first stop was the flotilla. since the waves were big, the biggest floating party in the world was moved further out to sea. still lots of boats and people having a great time. can’t believe a lot of people swam out from the beach. don’t know how or if they all made it back safely.
then it was round 2 for surf. another solid 2 hour session. waves super fun and very uncrowded. probably the only day of the year when you can’t find parking anywhere near ala moana. lucky us!
then we went in for food, shower, drop offs, and conversation. that was 6pm.
then back out for more surf and fireworks. watched the sunset and once we all got our awesome photos, it was time for round 3. paddled out at 7:15 and had one of the best sessions ever. the winds died, the tide dropped, the swell pulsed, and it was barrel after barrel. perfect glassy barreling bowls with only 2 other guys out. we surfed until pitch dark. watched Reid get barrel after barrel. even heard him yelling in a deep dark barrel. the echoes were cool and pure stoke. i got a few dark hole barrels of my own and it was super stoked surfing in the pitch dark with my friends. definitely a session we will remember for the rest of our lives.
we finish our session, shower on the boat, change into warm clothes, get out a beer and do a kanpai, then sit back and watch the show front row. nobody had a better seat than us. it was the perfect ending to a perfect day.
i’m super stoked on surfing again. the same stoke i had in intermediate school. just enjoying life in the ocean with friends. getting deeper into the soul of what surfing was and always should be. i feel as content as can be. i feel as happy as can be. living my life as there is no tomorrow, but also looking forward to tomorrow. really wished there were more hours in a day. aloha!
