Ocean Parties: Fun and Dangerous

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for the past 6 days, we have had recored breaking temperatures every single day here in hawaii. for me, i don’t remember it being this hot over here. so hot that i’m sweating! i usually never sweat in hawaii and thank goodness the trade winds are back!
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it’s been so hot that i’ve been surfing early in the morning. but so hard to keep out of the water when the waves have been so dam good.
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every once in a while, i give this little kid a tip. don’t want to overload his brain and confuse him, so i just say something i think he needs to do. he listens, he does it, and i can see his surfing getting better and better each day. nice early morning off the lip Aoi!
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i think samsung is a genius! they put a camera on the front of their new trucks, and a tv screen on the back so people in the back can see if it’s safe to overtake or not. very smart technology.
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look how crazy it was out in the middle of the sea on the 4th of july! about half of the people went out on boats, and the other half swam from shore. and just as we were talking about how we can’t believe how kids don’t die at the flotilla, a kid almost dies. police, ambulance, and everything. one kid apparently drank too much alcohol, did drugs, and was found unconscious. luckily they rescuers revived him and saved his life. that kid was only 14 years old.
the flotilla is fun, but can also be dangerous. when you’re in the ocean drinking alcohol, you don’t realize how dehydrated you are. if you don’t rehydrate with H2O, your body and mind will shut down. it happens all the time. so if you plan to go out there next year, take some water along with your alcohol. it’s a long and hard way back to the beach and once it gets dark, it gets lonely. the ocean is big and with these big south swells, i’m glad nobody else got hurt. just be responsible.

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide