another long and beautiful day goes by. woke up at 5am.
went to check out the waves in waikiki. seen this girl with a selfie stick early in the morning.
i had a feeling that queens was going to be really good. and it was! just perfect reforms and only a few surfers out.
canoes was good too. waves all over waikiki.
even the outside was breaking. seen Tommy Chung Ming ride this wave for over 2 minutes. from the outside all the way to the beach.
inside queens is my favorite when the waves are big. it’s too rough for the long boarders so if you can duck dive a hundred waves and catch one, you are in paradise. just like this guy.
so cool to see tourists getting up early in the morning to enjoy the beach while it’s still uncrowded.
i was standing on the wall and this couple came up to me and asked to take a photo. they said they saw me on tv in japan. good thing i wasn’t doing anything bad. haha.
when i went to the philippines a couple of years ago, i borrowed a tube and floated around in the shore break. i must have looked like this. haha.
then it was surf time. picked up Murasaki-san and took her surfing for her first time. omg, she did awesome! another perfect day to learn how to surf. then it was poke and shave ice. great job Murasaki-san!
then i jumped on the boat for an afternoon surf. passed by bowls and it was pretty dam good!
photos coming tomorrow morning. too tired to do anything else tonight as it’s approaching my bedtime. it’s only 8:15pm and i can’t keep my eyes open.
tomorrow more waves and more beautiful weather. have a big day coming so better get some rest. good night.
