yesterday was amazing! i saw dark clouds and rain!!! i was so happy to see our island getting watered! it’s been over 2 months since it rained. i love how nature is so unpredictable!
and so what if it rains? the waves are still good! in fact, great! super glassy conditions and the swell continues. still some super nice sets for everyone!
i can’t believe how many good waves Ushijima-san caught. just glassy perfect wave after wave riding it for super long. score!
and Ushijima-san got a super good long left too. i seen him with the big smile paddling out so i knew it was good.
Reid off the lip.
and stoked to see Reid’s son Ren surfing super good. started off on the long board and now officially on a short board. this kids only going to get better and better and stoker and stoker. sick bottom turn!
and surprise surprise surprise! i was in the parking lot in the morning and seen a black rent a car drive past me. i could have sworn i seen somebody i knew. five minutes later, Dove Wetsuits boss Inomata-san comes running up to me!!! OMG! “what are you doing here? why didn’t you tell me you’re coming to hawaii???” he said “why? you do the same thing in japan.” haha. true that! i thought that was pretty funny! sorry for always surprising my friends. but it was super nice to see Inomata-san in hawaii, and more super nice to surf with him. Keep Warm, Keep Happy, Keep Dove.
