still can’t believe how much energy Michi-san had. she only surfed 5x before and had the energy of a pro surfer. just kept on paddling back out after each long ride. i was wondering when she was going to get tired but never did. amazing energy and determination.
it was Michi-san’s first time paddling into waves on her own. and when she got up, she turned on every wave. perfect surfing Michi-san!
been seen some surfer amasan’s lurking around kaisers. here’s Reid looking for abalone?
Ren looking for lobsters?
it’s funny how women are always the best at finding things. Yuko-chan with the best find of the day. a $80 fin.
see this kaisers local getting some good waves all the time. don’t know his name but we call each other “what’s up.”
Chifumi-san on a super good rock piles left!
Troy in the soupy tube at bowls.
and yes, i had enough sashimi for a year. i don’t want to see any maguro for a while. haha.
by the time you’re reading this, i should either be on an airplane, or should be home sleeping. going to try and not get my hopes too high because the flights are pretty much sold out. if i make it, i’ll be eating good food with friends in 10 hours. if i don’t, i’ll go dawn patrol tomorrow morning at bowls. either way, it’s all good!
