Lucky Champion

265

so i get a text from Bobby late last night. “MICK GOT ATTACKED!!” i was dazed? attacked? what? by someone? so i turn on the live streaming web for the contest in south africa and watch the action. freaking unbelievable!
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to see someone you know and see surfing every year on the north shore, it kind of hits harder than usual.
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the shark pretty much attacked him. luckily Mick’s in one piece and it’s unbelievable that he survived it without a scratch.
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what do you do after you look death in the eyes? thank god. i’m sure Mick knows how lucky he is. i’m just not sure if he will ever surf Jeffrey’s Bay ever again. i surely wont.
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and i give his competitor Julian Wilson credit for paddling over to Mick to try to help him. that’s pretty dam brave of him to do that.
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they ended up canceling the contest and splitting the prize money and points between Mick and Julian. good call.
[youtube]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jtzu9Vgb_zE[/youtube]

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide