by now, the whole world knows what happened in south africa. it headlined on CNN and BBC all day yesterday. my sister and i were texting each other that night. and since Seth is in south africa right now filming for a surf video, we were all concerned about him. as a pro surfer, you kind of have to surf in sharky waters no matter what. it’s just part of the job. but this is an exception. you DO NOT surf at the same surf spot that somebody just got attacked the day before, especially in south africa. that shark still swims around that area and is still hunting for prey. in this case, surfers. it’s his home, it’s his territory, and it’s his world. we are on the outside and should respect it.
super stoked on the new watch Maki-san just gave me. it supposed to give you surf report forecasts and everything. can’t wait to go back to hawaii and set it up. thank you Maki-san!
right before i came on this trip, i went to enjoy an afternoon at my super secluded secret beach somewhere in hawaii. as i was pulling up, i could see something on the beach i’ve never seen before. got closer and thought to myself “OMG, could it be debris from the tsunami?” 4.5 years later? really? i jump off the boat, swim to the beach, and approach what looked like a japanese fishing boat. OMG, a japanese fishing boat that was lost in the tsunami. all the way from japan! i was going to call the news and report it but didn’t want to expose this beautiful beach to the world. i took more photos and am hoping somebody can help me find the owner. and of course, there must be a story behind it too. if i lost my boat, i would want it back. so if the person that lost this boat wants it back, i’ll do anything i can to help him. thank you.
