it’s cool how patient and understanding you have to be when chasing a typhoon swell. no matter what the forecasters or internet site models predict, the best way is going to check for yourself. this morning, that’s exactly what we did.
i set my alarm for 5am but i heard somebody tooting his horn from outside my room at 4:20am. i get up and find Matchi waiting in the pitch dark storming rain. i get in his car, we drive for 4 hours all over checking spot after spot. we knew there won’t be any waves today because the swell should start showing tomorrow and peak on friday. but like how we use to do it 20 years ago with no phone and no internet, we went on instinct. checked out everywhere so when the swell shows tomorrow, we will know exactly where to go. thanks Match for driving me around hours and hours for the past 23 years. always good to catch up on things.
i don’t come to japan typhoon season to surf reef breaks. i come here to surf river mouths. why? because there is nowhere in the world like here. the most perfect setups you can ever imagine. today was a little too small, but things will start growing rapidly.
typhoon 12 is right on course. i have thursday, friday, and saturday to surf it before it hits japan. then i have to scramble around to get a flight back to hawaii because i work next week.
if you ask google, here i am.
i’m sitting in my room overlooking the beautiful pacific ocean. come tomorrow, i’ll be moving around to a very far place. a place where my google map won’t work.
i still feel so weird after that bus ride last night. i still wasn’t hungry this morning but forced an udon into my stomach because i was feeling weak. $250, can’t beat this!
going to relax today and get my equipment ready for the next 3 days of surfing. can’t wait!
