surfing japan was really fun. just enjoying the typhoon swells in the summer time watching everybody super happy. secret spots to river mouths, just pure beauty. this was Wakayama on my last day before heading to the airport. so beautiful!
bodyboard girls having fun too!
i got home yesterday around 12pm from the airport. was watching the south shore grow and grow. i was in no rush because i knew the swell was getting bigger and the winds will be off shore all day long. so i waited and waited until i seen a huge 6′ set break over the red buoy at bowls. then it was time for me to leave home.
no parking and too tiring to paddle out to the lineup, so i took the easy way out.
i decided to take a little longer surfboard because i knew there was going to be some big barrels. 6’0 Matchi always reliable for the occasion.
i paddled out to big rights. it was 4′ and growing fast. some 6′ sets came in soon and i was getting some nice stand up barrels. it was so powerful today. not the normal south swell, felt more like north shore.
only a few surfers out on a saturday afternoon? where is everybody? surfed with Ross Williams and Glenn Minami. another dream session for sure. had an appointment at 6pm but surfed until 7:30pm. i just couldn’t go in because it was too good!
surfed until the sun went down. the conditions were like indonesia. perfect 6′ stand up barrels, super glassy, and only a few guys out. Ross told me it was way better than indonesia. i thought so too.
had to get back quickly for dinner. back in 3 minutes.
as i was washing the boat, the fireworks show started. it was freaking awesome! a wonderful way to end such a long day.
tomorrow should be even bigger. i’m a super stoked surfer now. it’s amazing how waves can bring me so much happiness. it’s like i’m still in a deep dream. nothing seems real anymore.
