got out to big rights this morning. totally empty! big waves for big men i guess? more huge barrels all morning long. no wind so glassy conditions, so many sets, and so many happy surfers. coming home 2 days earlier was the best decision i’ve ever made in my surfing career. i would have been super bummed if i missed this mega swell. and this evening was even better! omg, it was like a dream!
i still can’t’ believe how this summer has been! scored all summer, then went flat for a week, but it’s ok because i scored in japan, and now, more score! for me, this has to be the most powerful swell of the past 10 years. not the biggest, but definitely the strongest. so many broken boards and i haven’t gotten pounded this much since north shore. i checked the waves this morning and when i seen this wave almost break over the red buoy, i left my house.
the Transpac is in full swing so people from all over the world raced to get here to hawaii. so cool!
i seen the most craziest thing ever this morning. i seen a $100 million mega yacht coming in the channel. everything looked normal, then all of a sudden, i seen the yacht make a full turn in the channel!!! omg, i was freaking! a 100′ yacht trying to turn around in a 100′ channel with waves breaking? if a set came when the boat was sideways like this, it would have been the biggest and most expensive disaster in the ala wai history. i sill don’t know what the heck the captain was thinking????
he regained control and cruised on in. i was trying to yell up to the 4th floor captains tower “what were you thinking???”
then i turn my head to the left and see this? omg!!!! what the heck is going on???? anyway, the high surf warning continues. expect huge surf till tuesday. if you’re experienced, go get barreled. if you’re not, stay out of the freaking ocean!!!
the best of the best summer in the history of surfing in hawaii. glad i didn’t miss a thing! more photos coming tomorrow.
