had a great surf with a wonderful couple today. awesome big waves and long rides. so stoked to see the smiles after each ride. gosh, i love my job!
wanted to wish my friend Reid a speedy recovery from his injury. when you get hurt, it’s one thing. when your board gets hurt, it’s another. and when both happen, it’s shocking! hope to see you back in the water soon Reid.
two 14 year old florida kids are still missing at sea. they took out their boat and never came back. the boat was found capsized, but the kids were nowhere to be seen. i hope they find them soon.
i’ve never seen a surf report for the south shore 10-15′ before. three days of 10-15′ solid surf! unbelievable.
the ocean is the best place for me. the more i go into it, the more i love it. absolutely no stress. my personal power spot.
yesterday was absolutely the best big rights i’ve ever surfed. i surfed it 2x timing the tide and wind. couldn’t have timed it any better. surfed with a few friends exchanging barrels after barrels. here is Jun Jo taking off on a nice one!
then the evening session was even better. i planned to surf for 30 minutes but ended up staying out for over 3 hours. it just kept on getting better and better. i’d have to say it was my best session in my whole life on the south shore of oahu. pulling into thick stand up barrels and getting spit out was a dream. i got more barrels in the past 2 days than i got the entire 2014. i still can’t believe it.
on the way in, i picked up Micah at bowls and gave him a ride in. he told me “uncle, these past 2 days have been unreal. i’m so satisfied.”
then for the 2nd night in a row when i was washing the boat, the fireworks went off again! why? usually it’s only on fridays, but it went off on saturday and sunday. i think they did it for us surfers for scoring the best south swell in 30 years. thank you Hawaiian Hilton Hotel.
as the sun was setting, i was waiting on the outside with Jason Shibata. i told him, “brah, this is like indonesia!” he said “yeah, just like indonesia but without traveling to the other side of the world and spending $5,000.” we all claimed the waves were breaking just as good as HT’s and had our own private $30,000 boat trip session. we were totally laughing taking turns getting perfect barrel after barrel. we were yelling “HT’s, HT’s” before someone would go. it was a session none of us will never ever forget. thanks Jason, Gen, Cole, and Kaylen for the awesome experience. this is what surfing is all about!
