they finally chopped up the sailboat and put it in this dumpster. the beach is finally clean again. i was talking to the salvage guy and he told me that the captain was trying to ride a wave out near the buoy with his sailboat. bad idea! he crashed into the reef, he went to the hospital, and he had no insurance. so the state of hawaii had to pay for the salvage. our taxpayer money??? OMG!
once again, the waves were good today. some leftover 4′ sets and great conditions. incredible swell.
went surfing with Uchiyama-san today. we surfed 2 rounds both on the low tide and high tide. afternoon was much better. score!
then we went deep into china town for lunch. my favorite dim sum restaurant.
and my favorite sweet sour cabbage with pork rice noodles. omg, so good!
and of course, dessert.
such a wonderful couple. we had such a great time surfing and eating all day. thank you Uchiyama-san and Tomomi-san!
33 degrees celsius in 98 degrees fahrenheit. that’s pretty dam hot! but the good thing is you don’t sweat because the cool trade winds is like a free air conditioner. our perfect summer continues…
gosh, i’m just loving life! my hand is still sore and burning so bad. it won’t heal because i’m in the water everyday all day long. but once i ride a wave, all the pain goes away. surfing is healing magic!
oh, and yet another hurricane coming next week? the last one disappeared and this one is supposed to hit us. more waves coming!
want to thank Maneuverline Japan for the cool Cobian slippers. stoked but i hope nobody steals them.
going sleep early. tomorrow yet another full day of surfing. good night.
