had an awesome afternoon session yesterday with the surfers from Colorado. want to welcome Liam, Nanami-san, and Gavin back to paradise! get ready for some boot camp surf lessons!
Gavin on his first wave. good to see he hasn’t forgotten a thing.
Liam went on some pretty big ones. he looked super stoked on the waves!
and mother Nanami-san, the most energetic of the three. you can call her “Supermom!” hope your arms are rested and see you this afternoon for yet another surf boot camp lesson!
gosh, it’s only been a week since i was surfing in the middle of typhoon 12. totally perfect sandbar river mouth setups. i wait all year for days like this so when it finally comes, you can imagine how excited and happy i am. check out this empty left barrel that Matchi and I had to ourselves. a session i will never forget.
in order for the waves to get like this, it has to rain hard for a month, a typhoon has to send the right swells from the perfect direction, the wind has to be off shore, the river can’t be flowing too much, and you have to be super dam lucky. when all this happens, you will have the surf session of your life.
and when you can surf it with only a couple of friend out, that makes it even more special. Matchi going to get barreled.
still have so many photos i took in japan. haven’t had the time to even upload them to my computer. time is flying but when i can see these photos and go back only a week in a time capsule, i can relive each and ever moment again. can’t wait to do it again as typhoon 13 is heading that way right now.
