Braveheart Kid

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omg, had a super fun time this morning with Kishi-san and his cute kid Yugo-kun. last year was his first time surfing at a tender age of 6 years old. this year at 7, he was so excited to get his first wave!
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we kept riding and riding so many good waves.
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i started surfing at this age the same exact way. a memory i remember clearly 40 years later.
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Kishi-san caught some really nice waves too. super good balance and super good surfing.
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then Yugo-kun says “i want to surf by myself.” really???? so i give him his own board, i explain to him what to do, and he had so much determination as we waited for a wave.
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first ride perfect! omg, this kid is so brave!!!! he was so cute and everybody told me after “what a brave kid!” gosh, this photo is priceless!
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i still had the camera rolling when he finished the wave. i truly believe that surfing brings out a pure smile and this is the perfect example of that. good job Yugo-kun! you’re a very brave kid!
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and of course, i had to congratulate this young kid for doing such a great job today!
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then we came back to the beach and enjoyed the perfect weather in hawaii.
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a kid just being a kid. haha.
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then us hungry surfers went to eat pho. same place as last year because Yugo-kun loved it!
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then i went to take the high school kids out for an afternoon session. another 5 hour surf day and i’m totally satisfied again! same thing tomorrow so better get going to sleep. goodnight from hawaii!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide