wanted to surf the biggest wave on the south shore today so the place for that is diamond head. diamond head is a wave magnet and is usually bigger than anywhere else on the south shore. so that’s where Team Sendai and i went.
every time i paddle out, i look back because it is one of the most beautiful places in the world. it’s hard to believe there is a concrete jungle called “Waikiki” right behind this beautiful mountain.
when ever i take people surfing, i always tell them “stay right next to me. i’ve been surfing here for over 30 years so i know the reef, current, lineup, and where the best waves will come.” if you surf next to me, you will get the best waves for sure. if you don’t, you won’t. Kiyomi-san stayed by me the whole time and got the wave of the day! look how freaking beautiful this wave is!!!
OMG, i would love to have a photo of myself like this at diamond head. this is an angle not seen too often.
nice BB cutback!
Tanaka-san probably caught the most open waves of the day than any surfer out there. he was in the right rotation and kept on getting the good ones. super power surfing for a super power guy.
nice stylish cutback!
diamond head is a very hard spot to figure out. just ask Hayato-san. you have to be right in the perfect place to get the good ones. towards the end of the session, Hayato-san figured it out and caught some long open rights.
great surfer with great style. diamond head was the best spot today so we scored!
on a normal day, i would ride my typical thin and narrow short board. but when i take people surfing, i ride a thick 3 inch board by 21 inches wide for a reason. the reason is i can get in the wave faster, ride behind comfortably, and get a photo that not too many people can get. diamond head is the hardest place to shoot if you ask any photographer. i’ve been doing this for years so it’s pretty easy. and when and when i’m not shooting, i can still put the thick board on rail and have fun.
you will see this Keurig coffee maker in almost every house in america. a super successful company that got big really fast. i was taking a look at their stock last year and was even thinking of buying some. then yesterday the big news on Keurig laying off employees and sales forecasts down. the stock took a hit at 30% down on wednesday. add the downward trend since january 2015, it’s down 59%. omg, i would have lost more than half my money!!! abunai!
