had a great time yesterday afternoon surfing with Yoshizawa-san. a surfer for 32 years that knows the true history of japanese surfing. we had a great conversation!
the waves got a lot bigger in the afternoon. lots of waves and lots of duck diving. cool underwater photo of Yoshizawa-san!
thank you for the wonderful afternoon Yoshizawa-san! keep on surfing!
i was cleaning up my closet and found a tshirt i was saving for the past 10 years.
photo tshirt by spice clothing japan. cool underwater photo yeah?
“If you don’t go, you don’t know.” that’s my lifetime quote and that’s how i live my life. i go, so i know. haha.
i took this photo back in the Banyaks many years ago. that 7 day trip was amazing. we left on a boat from padang, stopped in terms, stopped in bias, then surfed the banyaks. then did the same thing all the way back. we must have traveled for a total of 48 hours each way. i remember the captain telling me that this charter was losing money for him because all the gas we used. omg, i could imagine.
was playing under the water yesterday. just loving every minute of it!
my friend sent me this photo he found off the web somewhere. first time i seen it! must have been a few years ago at backdoor. gosh, now i want to get barreled again!
it’s amazing how much love Tomo-chan has for her daughter. i see them playing in the ocean almost every day. such a lucky daughter that will love her mom forever.
