had a blast riding waves together with Naya-san. he’s surfing while I’m on the side yelling “look straight, bend your knees!” perfect!
Naya-san learned how to surf in the Philippines a couple of years ago. and now he’s hooked. that’s cool!
the sets were pretty big. so we started off with the smaller ones and gradually made ourselves to the outside catching all the big sets. i’m pretty sure it was the biggest and longest waves of Naya-san’s life.
and of course i’m always nearby for coaching and safety reasons. sometimes too nearby. haha. i was posing in the back for the photo. i don’t think Naya-san knew i was there.
and yes, i was trying to get tubed again. the waves were so perfect and beautiful!!!
remember Jose Angel? well, he’s not only my stepfather, he’s also the first surfer on the very first SURFER MAGAZINE cover back in 1960. pretty historic event! i’m so stoked to have known this wonderful waterman. the same waterman that took me surfing for the first time when i was only 7 years old. maybe i owe my surfing life to Jose.
Jose’s saying was “I’m so stoked. Every single day is like my whole life. I live it that way. I live each day like it’s the last.”
when i read this for the first time a month ago, i got the craziest chicken skin. now i feel so connected to a man that taught me so many things in life. so many things in life that i’m living right now. i’m so stoked too. i live every day like it’s my last. now i’m wondering if i got it from Jose? he was a survivor. he could live off the land and sea. when he went missing at sea, many people thought he’s still alive. i wouldn’t doubt that him and his best friend Eddie Aikau are living happily on a secluded island surfing the best waves ever. the legend continues.
