yesterday was a big day for me. it’s been 4.5 years since the tsunami. we saw with our own eyes what happened in ishinomaki. to tell you the truth, surfing there never even crossed my mind. a year would pass and a few surfers would start surfing again. then another year, and more surfers returning. i would hear the wonderful news and think to myself “i can’t wait to surf with the locals, i can’t wait for the day we can all enjoy the ocean together.”
well, that day has finally come. the night before, we got the surf report from Azumi-san, he let us borrow boards and wetsuits, and we did what surfers do, surf! we had a great time. so many things rushing in my mind as i sit and wait for a wave. this day was always a dream for me. Matsu felt the same way as we’ve been waiting for this moment for the past 4 years. tears of joy mix with the water off our faces as we surf. words can’t express our feelings. a surfers bond, a priceless moment. nobody cares about the waves, nobody cares about the rain, all we care about is finally sharing this moment together. this is surfing, this is life! thank you Azumi-san for the inspiration throughout the years. and thank you also and Kuni-san for the local ishinomaki surfers hospitality! we shall do this again!
leaving the beach, you can still see signs of the tsunami. pretty chilling, but we are past that already. no negative thoughts, only positive vibes.
then it’s breakfast time. surf culture in japan. i love everything about it!
We Are Happy!
We Are One!
