it’s the first time ever to have three category 4 storms all at one time near hawaii. el nino is pulling the storms near the islands and it’s creating hot weather, perfect waves on all shores, and glassy conditions. a surfers dream!
surfed this morning with Ambo-san again. we surfed for 3 hours and he told me the caught 9 months worth of waves already. super good waves and super good rides! after every wave, he would paddle back out and say “so fun!”
then we went to eat pho. gosh, i love it!
ramen equals japan, and pho equals hawaii.
then we went to check out diamond head. OMG, SO BEAUTIFUL! we stood there and all you can hear when tourists come out of their car and see this beautiful view was “OH MY GOSH!” it was a perfect day!
if we surf tomorrow, Ambo-san will get one full years worth of surfing in just 3 days! that would be cool!
don’t know why but my morning post cut off the heads of these beautiful crazy women. Britney Spears? omg, wasn’t she once a little shy girl?
and Miley Cyrus? wasn’t she once the little cute disney girl? what the heck happened to these girls??? and where are the rest of their clothes? i’m glad i’m not their father. i would jump off a cliff.
and who the heck is this? 10 years ago, you wouldn’t even imagine seeing dresses like this. i’m scared to see what the trend will be 10 years later? fully naked? omg!
anyway, waves and good conditions all week. water is warm, weather is hot, and waves are epic. back to life, back to paradise!
