omg! after the picture perfect day yesterday, today was the totally opposite. the big news was the huge storm dumping rain all over the island. traffic everywhere!
so i leave the house and take the back roads around the traffic to waikiki. 15 minutes on the dot. all i wanted to do was get out of the crazy traffic so the best place was in the ocean! picked up Ambo-san and headed to the harbor.
we surfed in the thundering rain. it was raining so hard at one point that you couldn’t see anything. but hey, it’s only water right? this is the view to the beautiful diamond head. today, you couldn’t see it even if you tried your best.
we managed to get a good session in. super fun waves with only us out. want to thank Reid and Yuko-chan for giving Ambo-san every single wave he wanted. once again, he kept on paddling back out and saying “i’m so happy.” that makes us all happy too.
Ambo-san caught a years worth of waves in the past 3 days. i could see the pure stoke in him and i hope he enjoyed his hawaiian surf trip. have a safe flight out of hawaii and see you somewhere in this world! maybe Cancun or El Salvador again? we shall see.
this guy tried to steal this girls iPhone. but he chose the wrong girl. the girl happened to be a good MMA fighter so she tackled the guy and put him in a triangle choke hold until the police came. it was pretty funny watching him crying.
crazy to see all the refugee’s fleeing syria. they are pretty much running for their lives!!! and the sad thing is that no country is taking them in.
and when you see mothers and children this desperate, it gets even sadder. this world is becoming a crazy place to live.
more rain tonight, hurricanes, more storms, more flooding, and more waves. you probably got wet today but like my friend Holli says “it’s only water!”
