getting out to the lineup yesterday was pretty hard. some solid 4-5′ sets breaking on our heads but we managed to get out and wait for the sets.
Hashimoto-san is a very tuff surfer. very determined to get out each and every time. one huge freak set broke on our heads and even i had to throw my board and dive under. getting tougher and tougher wave by wave.
here i am on the side again yelling “LOOK FORWARD!!!”
was so stoked to see Hashimoto-san surfing 10x better than last year. i love to see improvements and it makes me so happy to see the pure stoke!
of course i had to get a few of my own. i left hawaii surfing epic waves, and now i’m back surfing epic waves. just loving the perfect timing of precious mother nature!
i was given a DVD a few days ago. i watched it last night and loved it! it’s about the samurai lifestyle. a lifestyle i always dream to live someday. most people say “no way, it’s not going to happen.” but i still believe it will someday.
i’m so fascinated by the way the samurai once lived. pretty much live and die by the sword. i would give anything to go back 100 years and live that kind of lifestyle.
and i would sit on my tatami everyday looking outside into my garden of bonsai plants. then i would have my yamato nadeshiko pamper me all day long. then when it’s time to fight with my sword, i’d be ready to die! opps, sorry. i just finished reading the samurai book by Musashi Miyamoto, and i just watched this movie. i better wake up and get back to the real life we live in now. haha.
