to have solid 5′ surf for 4 days straight is very rare. it’s already september and our most epic summer continues. and the great thing about it is there are no winds! this is no normal summer in hawaii, this is like indonesia hawaii. no reason at all for me to travel far away this year.
Hashimoto-san use to be very scared of big waves. but after 4 days of huge surf and pushing his limits, he’s a lot more comfortable and a lot more confident. he had to dive under 200 waves this week.
this is the take off from behind. Hashimoto-san taking the big drop for the ride of his life!
welcome a new big waver to this world!
i’m totally burnt! the sun has been so strong that my face feels like it’s going to peel off. i must have caught over a thousand waves this summer. lots of barrels and lots of fun. can’t beat this view from my office everyday.
there is an art to wiping out. here are a couple examples on how i think is the best way to avoid injury. if you go left, it’s best to jump off to the left behind your board. the key is to penetrate the water so you go underwater deep enough so your board doesn’t hit you and you pop out the back of the wave. so this is the best way to wipe out going left.
and going right, the opposite. jump off the right side behind the board and try to penetrate the water enough to avoid the board from hitting you and enough for you to go under the wave. on both these examples, i simply popped back up behind the wave. super simple but you have to practice.
