Decades Back: The Old Man and the Sea

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gosh, it seems like years ago but it was just a month ago when Tou-san came to hawaii and surfed the biggest waves of her life. amazing photo!
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and Hashimoto-san too. surfing 3 days of big waves!
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there were 2 shark sightings yesterday in waikiki. i still don’t understand why it makes such big news. where there’s ocean, there are sharks. almost every single time i dive in waikiki, i see sharks. should i call the news and report it too? don’t think so. i have a good idea. they should just post these signs on every single beach on our island. and maybe every single beach in the world. where there is ocean, there are sharks. where there are cars, there are accidents. where there are guns, there are shootings. where there are dogs, there are attacks. this is just a part of everyday life. my nephew asked me the other day “uncle, do you think everything happens for a reason?” my answer always has been “yes, everything happens for a reason. some good, some bad. if good, ride it. if bad, deal with it. it will eventually make you a better person.”
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well, i should be half way here by now. it’s so amazing how you can read one book and get so inspired. going back decades before it gets destroyed!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide