Surf Twins???

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surfing with Fujita-san was super fun! he’s only surfed 3 times before and his longest ride was 4 seconds. well, things changed pretty fast. he caught 20 waves and rode each one for 15-30 seconds. i was watching him getting better and better each wave.
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it’s his first time to hawaii so everything is so new. the first time he seen diamond head from the water, he seemed so amazed.
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it was very uncrowded and very hot. it was the first time in my life i was sweating in the water. sweat was dripping off my head the whole time. but one wave will do the job to cool it off. great surfing Fujita-san!
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then we had a pho lunch break. great talk and found out Fujita-san backpacked the world for 1.5 years. it was cool listening to his stories that i could totally relate too. he said Tibet was his favorite country. i will certainly visit there someday.
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it was supposed to be heavy rain, but luckily the weather report was way off. a perfect day to hike diamond head and get the perfect 360 degree most beautiful view in the world.
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it was a picture perfect day!
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as soon as i picked up Fujita-san from his hotel, i thought he looked like somebody i know very well. all day, i was just looking at him and thinking to myself “omg! he looks just like Naoka!!!!” what do you think? isn’t it crazy?

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide