Hawaii Underground: Secret Town Spot…..

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good morning. 6:15am and i didn’t get up to go surf. i have jury duty. now i know how it feels to get up early, check the waves, see it’s going off, and be stuck in a room all day. that sucks… still chest high leftover sets with pretty dam good conditions. have a nice day and hope i have one too….

ok, like i said before, there is this secret reef that works on the right swell direction, tide, and wind. everything has to fall into place for it to work. if something is off, this spot doesn’t even exist. so as i left the park yesterday, i went to check it out. and it was working again. i saw 5 straight sets peeling and barreling like this. 3 of the waves spit. and was it crowded? nope. nobody was out. your going to have to be my good friend for me to tell you where this is. and if you are out there when i’m there, you better not tell anybody or i will have to hurt you… haha…

part of being an american is having duties. yeah, jury duties… i just got this mail for jury duty last week and the day is finally here, today. what do i have to do? show up 7:30am in town at the court building, sit down with some peers, and make judgement on some case. a judgement that can change some persons life forever. do i have to do it? yes. can i get out of it? no, i already tried…. i gotta go so i’m kind of looking forward to it. i wish i have some difficult case that makes all us jurors argue. because i love to argue…. i’m going to be the hard head guy that doesn’t want to agree. then we will have to stay in there all day. haha… the only thing i’m hoping for is that the guy getting charged isn’t my friend. because if he is, he’s going to be a free man… if you live in america, you have to pay your dues.. and i’m off to pay mine now…. just hope i have a lunch break because kewalo’s is right across the street…. boards in the car and i’m ready to go….

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide