can you believe this was the peak at bowls yesterday? i swear it was the first time in my life it was this empty. i guess everybody is surfed out. then i see my nephew Isaiah paddle out and he looked puzzled too. i told him “brah, you couldn’t have paddled out at a better time.”
Tanaka-san is from Fukui, Japan. super energetic surfer that kind of reminds me of myself when i was his age. nice wave with no people around.
Ikeda-san is from Kumamoto, Japan. only been surfing for 6 years but surfs really good. another wave with no people around.
Tanaka-san on a right. another wave with no people around.
and Tanaka-san on a life. another wave with no people around.
had some solid 5′ sets. just barely making it under. i actually had to throw my board and dive under a few times.
stoked to see my other nephew Micah paddle out later. such a good kid.
and Isaiah was on fire! just ripping every wave to the fullest.
Isaiah again. good surfer, good kid.
then bowls got crowded so we paddled to another spot. Tanaka-san and Ikeda-san asked me “what is this spot called?” i said “THE BIG BOWL and it only breaks when it’s BIG!” they both looked at me and said “OMG, DANEROUS!” haha. i told them, if i say go, you go. then i said “if you don’t go, you won’t know.”
Ikeda-san charged one and but didn’t make it. after this, he wanted more and more. haha. Tanaka-san rode a couple and was super stoked.
i got a really nice barrel! never made it out, but felt great for a few seconds.
then we went to check out ala moana beach park. gosh, it was so beautiful! i could have sat there all day and watched the waves. i love hawaii!
