surfing Kewalo’s yesterday was fun. forgot how much of a different world it is compared to bowls. just different faces, different, locals, and different waves. Kewalo’s is the proving ground for the next generations of aspiring professional surfers. world champions come out of here. everybody surfs good and if you want a wave, you have to earn it.
like every spot in the world, everybody has to pay their dues. Aoi getting dropped in on a tiny little girl. after she did this, i told him “go get your waves!”
stoked to see Gen out surfing with the boys too. super good kid.
Kewalo’s is a great spot for goofy footers because the wave bends in from the channel.
Aoi, great job keeping low to the board and looking forward. perfect surfing.
i was trying to take off behind Aoi and follow him going left. but he did a bottom turn right and almost killed me. haha.
Kewalo’s is fun for all ages. i can’t believe i’m an uncle out there. haha. i use to be a grom like Aoi, and now i’m an uncle. gosh, i’m getting old.
Aoi’s last wave was his best. takes time and practice to figure out kewalo’s. the waves is very tricky. but if you want to become a competitive surfer, you have to surf there because that’s where most of the contests are held.
super good kid that listens very well. i can see him getting better and better each day. that makes me happy.
this morning i surfed with Mr. and Mrs. Niimura. super great time and perfect waves for us. the water is getting cooler, the wind is getting cooler, and i feel winter right around the corner.
and seems like the sky is getting bluer. the weather forecast predicted heavy rain today. not for us.
just looking at the blue sky makes me happy. not too many places in the world you can look up and see this kind of amazing blue color.
i wouldn’t want to have been anywhere else in the world today.
and Diamond Head was so beautiful too.
small fun waves and only a couple surfers out. summer is finally coming to a close. i like it because the ocean gets empty as people start going back to work. haha.
thank you Mr. and Mrs. Niimura-san for the awesome day and tea! itadakimasu!
