Surf and Pay it Forward!

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Iwata
want to thank Mama and Papa Iwata-san for these wonderful gifts!
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i will surely use these! chopsticks made in japan. cool!
Niwa
want to thank Niwa-san for the senbei. i ate half already. haha.
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want to thank Hikaru-san for the avocados. can’t wait for it to get ripe!
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want to thank Mid-Pac for all the goodies. i will take it on my flight to japan and eat it all!
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want to congratulate Rei-kun for doing his best at his first contest ever. i’m sure he was nervous. everybody is but once you get past the nerves, everything will be alright.
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Kaneko-san and Rei-kun in chiba this past weekend. my cool surfer friends!
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yesterday was cool. you can see the dirty water and clean water line. it was moving around all morning long and so were we.
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on the left was Nakamoto-san and i surfing in the clean water. on the right were a few crazy surfers that didn’t know what was going on. they were surfing in the poop. this line is very interesting because this is usually where the sharks like to hang out. and this is where i like to hang out because nobody else does this. that means, very uncrowded clean wave surfing.
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Nakamoto-san caught any and every wave he wanted. he said he rode 6 months of waves. i just kept him in the clean side all morning long.
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clean water surfing when it’s supposed to be dirty. these are the days you can score the best session of your life. Nakamoto-san surfed here so many times and couldn’t understand why nobody was out. then when i told him why, he felt so lucky. yes, he’s very lucky. look how perfect the conditions were!!!
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and of course, i had to get a few for myself too.
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had so much fun this morning with Niwa-san. omg, we surfed for so long! super good waves, super good rides, and super energetic girl.
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we went to eat pho. before we walked in, i seen my friend Ray outside waiting for his take out. we said hello and that was it. after Niwa-san and i finished eating, i asked for the check. the owner told me “your friend paid for you guys.” what???? he said “yeah, your friend you saw earlier came in and paid for both of your lunch and left.” OMG! thank you so much Ray! i really appreciate your kindness. then i was telling Niwa-san that this is the aloha we have here in hawaii. that’s why i love it so much! it’s time to pay it forward. can’t wait!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide