Short Trip or Short Memory?

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gosh, surfing with Ai-san and Rika-san seems like so long ago. BUT, it was only a week ago from today! are my trips short? or is my memory getting short? or both?
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Ai-san with the perfect smile paddling out early morning.
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great job Ai-san!
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and great job Rika-san! you girls did so great! thank you for the wonderful surf morning! and can’t believe i still went straight to the airport with sand on my feet. haha.
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Akeo and Matsuo for the DJ’s. both cool guys with great surfing in their blood. both Dove riders for over 20 years. says a lot about these guys loyalty.
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so happy that Asayama-san drove all the way from Saitama to see me. we had a great time in hawaii this summer and i was happy to hear all his stories on how he loves surfing so much. a great man with a brand new life at 66 years old. just ask Asayama-san and he will tell you that it’s never too late to start surfing.
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and it’s never too late to start yoga too! after his first ever yoga session together in hawaii, Asayama-san went back to japan and practices frequently. so stoked for his new genki lifestyle!
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the contest was amazing! just happy faces everywhere! good to see grass roots surfing living on for 40 years of excellence.
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everybody supporting each other. from start to finish, everybody was winners!
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Shin-san always with plenty of aloha!
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last, check out this cool outside bath in chigasaki. awesome!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide