can you believe the waves we have here in october? i don’t remember the last time we had this many good waves in october. this is bowls today. so good and so glassy.
on the way out, seen Troy getting a good one. way too crowded for us so went to look for surf with nobody around. and yes, we found it!
it was another beautiful day in the ocean. we were on the boat all day long.
surfing with my friend Carter these days is super cool. we pretty much competed against each other ever since we were 13 years old. just pushing each other to get better and better all these years. now, we just enjoy the waves, enjoy the surf, and enjoy the vibe. and to see Carter doing big turns at our age makes me super stoked to be surfing.
we surfed all the way until dark. while we were in the water before sunset, Takami-san told me “this feels like a boat trip!” yes it does. Takami-san and i have been on many boat trips throughout the years and everyone very memorable. even todays!
then had to speed home for my brothers birthday party. i have 2 brothers and we were born exactly 1 year and 1 week apart. so next week thursday is my other brothers birthday. gosh, my mom must have been busy. haha.
just got home and it’s 10pm already!!! left my house at 7:30am and gone all day. super tired but super happy for yet another wonderful day in hawaii. tomorrow work again so looking forward to more waves and more smiles. goodnight.
