had another great surfing session with Aoi this morning. watching this kid getting better and better each week is awesome. the waves were perfect this morning!
south swell in october? yes, everybody enjoying it. locals too as John getting the best waves of the day.
Mike Akima bottom turn. perfect glassy conditions.
got out of the water at 10:30am and right back in. been training these girls how to be independent surfers so i just throw them in the water and let them grow.
Toda-san and Takami-san joined us for a weekend boat trip.
waves were super fun like always. can’t complain when we have the whole ocean to ourselves. just taking turns enjoying each wave by wave. Toda-san on a nice one!
Takami-san doesn’t like crowds. nobody does. so jumping on a boat and looking for a spot where nobody surfs is total happiness!
been taking these 2 girls surfing ever since they were babies. i must have pushed them into a thousand waves. but now, i tell them “you’re on your own.” they are old enough to catch waves for themselves. and in order to catch waves on your own, you have to wipe out once in a while. here is one girl wiping out once in a while.
here is the other girl wiping out once in a while. haha. i just sit on the side and laugh my head off!!! haha!!! someday they will learn, and someday they will become independent surfers.
as for me, i had my fair share of wipeouts these past 40 years. now, i just time it right and enjoy each ride. pretty simple.
can you believe it was 33C today??? omg, it’s summer all of a sudden again!!!
tomorrow i will be in the ocean all day long. not a bad place to have your office. have a wonderful night!
