good evening. paddled out to big rights this morning with a cam and took some action. the waves were kind of small but super fun. i got bored sitting in the channel so i held the camera strap with my teeth and caught a few waves taking video, well, trying to take video. had a hard time but still learning. can somebody give me some advice on how to shoot yourself? anyway, i did my best so check it out by clicking play on the photo below…
then this afternoon, i went on my friends boat to check out bowls. pulled up and a solid 4′ set came in. i think the waves are coming up and this swell is supposed to peak on sunday. i’m guessing solid and epic town for the next few days. surf/shoot. have a great evening and please drive safe. i’ve been seeing too many accidents recently… go slow….