Hawaii: Friday the 13th Surf Session….

271

good evening. paddled out to big rights this morning with a cam and took some action. the waves were kind of small but super fun. i got bored sitting in the channel so i held the camera strap with my teeth and caught a few waves taking video, well, trying to take video. had a hard time but still learning. can somebody give me some advice on how to shoot yourself? anyway, i did my best so check it out by clicking play on the photo below…

then this afternoon, i went on my friends boat to check out bowls. pulled up and a solid 4′ set came in. i think the waves are coming up and this swell is supposed to peak on sunday. i’m guessing solid and epic town for the next few days. surf/shoot. have a great evening and please drive safe. i’ve been seeing too many accidents recently… go slow….

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide