yesterday was yesterday, today was today. time flying by so fast that i can’t even keep up. was talking to my friend in the water today and he told me he doesn’t even remember how many good waves he caught this summer. neither do i. and another friend came in and told me “omg, i got 16 barrels in the past 2 days!” the summer surf and the awesome stories continue…
was seriously planning to go back to El Salvador this month or next to surf. but not serious anymore. i just can’t see myself spending money and flying to somewhere far when the waves 15 minutes from my house are going off everyday. i’m actually hoping for the south shore to go flat soon because i’m craving free diving so bad. so bad that i might jump on a plane for a dive trip. anyway, these photos were from yesterday. yesterday that i already forgot. haha.
fast forward to today. bigger and better! perfect waves, perfect wind, perfect weather, and very uncrowded. dream sessions for everyone!
surfed with Uemura-san this morning. he’s been surfing for 8 years. first time to hawaii, first time surfing a reef break. he caught so many perfect long waves today. after each wave paddling back out with a big smile. he told me he caught the biggest and best wave of his life today. i love hearing that!
then took Mamiko-san for a surf in the afternoon. super good balance and super good smile. she did great!
then watched the news about the shark attack at Lanikai Beach. the sharks are hungry and coming closer and closer to shore each year. experts say it’s the dirty water. i’m not an expert, but i say it’s because of the over population of turtles.
luckily this kayaker was there to pull the victim to shore.
Lanikai Beach closed today and probably tomorrow. enjoy your life because anyone could be next.
this evening still pumping surf. tomorrow still solid and another swell on the way. love surf, love life, and love hawaii.
