early morning barrels feel the best! imagine coming out of a barrel and seeing the most beautiful view in the world. you really can’t beat this.
oh, and doing slash feels great too!
Uemura-san on a good right! pure stoke!
i truly believe that surfing brings out the best smiles in everyone.
imagine surfing a beach break for your whole surfing career. then coming to hawaii and surfing the best point break on the south shore. then catching the biggest and best ride of your life. days like this a surfer will never forget for the rest of his or her life.
great job Uemura-san. keep on surfing dude!
Mamiko-san tried surfing a few times but didn’t really stand up. so yesterday, i could tell she was nervous. as we paddled out, i told to relax and be calm. i explain to everybody that being nervous doesn’t do you any good. if you let your nerves take over, you will forget everything and your body won’t function properly. not good for surfing. but if you put the nerves aside, everything will be fine. after a couple waves, the nerves went away and everything was fine! so simple.
great surfing, great smile, and great day. keep on surfing Mamiko-san!
