another birthday boy in october. celebrating so many family birthdays this month. happy birthday Nate!
had a great time surfing this morning with Nakayama-san. super cool surf dude that caught some freaking big waves today! he was kind of tripping out on how big the waves were. it was huge!
then went to take care of business in the hot sun.
i was doing routine maintenance. i tell my friends that taking care of a boat is higher maintenance than taking care of your girlfriend. but the good thing is boats don’t talk back. haha.
then took Kim for an afternoon session. such a perfect beautiful day for everyone!!! omg, look how black i am!!!
then came home to take care of my yard. so good to see the flowers blooming. and still waiting on my sudachi plant to produce some fruit!
working in the yard watching the rainbow. i see this every single day!
then jumped on the Yamaha for a sunset ride around town.
rode through waikiki people and sunset watching. it was so beautiful!
they issued a high surf advisory today for the south shores of oahu. it’s the 3rd time this month? all us surfers are in total disbelief! but hey, we will take it. all the hawaiian guys who usually go to indonesia to chase perfect waves never left hawaii this summer. why go to indonesia when we have indonesia in our back yard? look at this freaking wave this evening!!! this is as perfect as it gets.
want to thank Naganuma-san for the warm jacket. perfect for my snowboarding trip this year to hokkaido!
and thank you Higeta-san for the japanese gift. i love anything japanese because i’m japanese!
waves continue. two more south swells coming after this one. one part of me wants to take a trip, but the other part is saying “are you crazy?” i’m crazy so as soon as something changes, i’m gone. good night.