omg! check out this biggest hurricane ever recorded about to hit mexico! el nino continues.
waking up to this is depressing. another sailboat bites the dust. more reef killed, more gas and oil in the ocean, and more headaches. they should close the ala wai channel at night when the waves get big like this. it happens just way to often.
but great to wake up to another amazing day of big surf! the waves still pumping! huge ground swells making this one of the best swells of the season.
here’s the sequence of the day. went to run away from the crowds yesterday morning. surfed with friends for 3 hours and had a blast. had it to ourselves! we were taking turns and having so much fun. figuring out the waves, and figuring out how to make the best out of the wave. Reid setting up for the epic backside power snap.
this is where you want to be when you torque your body. on the top of the wave putting all your weight on the back foot. knees bent so when it’s time to extend, you can push the tail as hard as you want.
just like this.
and when you complete the turn, it feel so freaking great! awesome surfing Reid!
we were out on the boat from 7:30am to 4:30pm. totally unplanned. just went out for a quick morning session but ended up surfing 2 sessions totaling more than 6 hours. yesterday was one of my best surfing days ever. just to have fun with friends and getting barreled all day is like a dream come true. a dream i will never ever forget! oh, and coming back into the harbor watching Legend World Champion Derek Ho getting barreled was awesome.
when i got home at 5:30pm, all i wanted to do was eat and sleep. but, i made plans with my middle school classmates at 6:30. one drink lead to another and the next thing you know, i had a lot of Don Julio Tequila in my stomach. at 2am, i was feeling like a world champion surfer. haha. thank you to all my friends yesterday for the wonderful time. let’s do it all over again!
