had an awesome afternoon surfing with Aoi. so stoked to see his progression. after each wave, i try to encourage him to do better and better. he’s a very good listener and it’s showing in his surfing.
the key to surfing better backside is to stay low. keep your knees bent on the bottom turn just like this.
so when you go up the wave, your knees are still bent enough for you to extend off the top.
this is where you push the tail. towards the end of the session, i seen Aoi get some really good backside snaps in. bigger sprays off the top and it must have felt good because it looked good. good surfing today kid!
and i had a blast surfing too. after i got back home tonight, i realized that my body is over surfed. just so tired and needs a break. so hey, i’m taking a break from the ocean starting tomorrow. yes, i know there are 2 more south swells on the way but i’m pretty sure i had enough.
the drive back in is always so amazing. the perfect way to end a perfect day. 2 surf sessions today with lots of good rides.
good job Aoi. just remember what we talked about today. focus on that and you will succeed!
