Jack Winter and Hawaiian Summer

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gosh, it was such a blue day today. so stoked to be back home. yes, i had a great time traveling and seeing some amazing places, but hawaii is home for me. jumped in the truck to go surf and battery was dead. then a tire was wearing out too so spent $300 to change both. took 4 hours of waiting so instead of sitting on a chair in the waiting room, i waited somewhere else.
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i waited on the ocean. it was blue on blue! felt so good to be in the sea!
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little by little, Cuba is getting connected to the world. how do i know? because i was walking around and seen spots where people would gather and be on their smart phones. so i walk up to see what’s going on and was soon approached by guys selling wifi cards. welcome to the black market!
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if you go to a hotel, a 1 hour wifi card will cost you $10. if you’re a typical tourist buying one in the black market, you will pay $5. for me, i know how to bargain like a local so i paid only $2.
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scratch off the back and enter into iPhone. this is how i uploaded my blogs. i bought 3 cards and that’s it. 3 hours of internet in 4.5 days? that’s my recored of least internet in the past 15 years! i loved the freedom!!!
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walked into a store and saw something new. Winter Jack? wow, might have to try some!
well, south swell continues. waves going off! trade winds back. north shore starting to get crowded with contest pros. i’m so jet lagged it’s not even funny. hopefully my body, mind, and soul will get back to normal soon. good night.

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide